Last week I cheated by using gelatin to make a gel with raspberry puree. This time I was inspired by the recipe that Chef Thomas Keller put in his cookbook ad hoc at home. His citation suggests that the recipe may be a similar to this recipe from the Culinary Institute of America. This recipe uses a single apple to have pectin to make a gel. This recipe is very exciting. The lack of citric acid reduces the intensity of the flavor of the jam. The flavor is pleasing and mellow. Using the cooking times from the recipe at the Culinary Institute of America, I created a much thicker jam than I would make using directions from the Ball Blue Book. This jam would require twice of the amount of fruit to make the same amount from my recipe for making raspberry jam with gelatin. In the picture below, I used the “plate test” to determine if the gel was thick enough to make a jam. Jelly lacks seeds and jelly is much thinner than jam. Some people use the “sheeting test” to test the thickness of jelly. Using the plate test, a person uses their finger to draw a line through a spoonful of jam put on a plate. “If the jam separates and slowly returns to its original form, the spread is at the gelling point.” The jam must be at room temperature. This jam never returned to its original form. Maybe adding water would not harm the flavor. The other part of this recipe that may be confusing is not knowing the acidity of a jam made with raspberries and apples. Acid removes bacteria that water at the boiling point cannot remove. Especially when making strawberry jam, apples may not make the jam acidic enough to confidently preserve strawberry jam. A chart in the Ball Blue Book says that apples are acidic, but without a ph tester, or advice from the author of the recipe at the CIA, adding lemon juice might be important. This is a great jam! I am very pleased to have this recipe.
Download The Recipe:
1. Thomas Keller: ad hoc at home (New York: Artisan, 2009), 247.
2. Ball Blue Book (Edition 37) (Hearthmark, LLC, 2014), 6.